travel

'I'd never imagined visiting Qatar. Here's my experience after five days in Doha.'

Going to the Middle East had always been a dream of mine. 

I long to see places so different to my own home in Australia, to experience cultures unlike anything I've known and of course, to eat all the food. Because hummus, labneh, falafel, fattoush and anything with za'atar sounds like heaven to me.

Places like Oman and Dubai have always been at the top of my list. Then Qatar entered the picture.

At first, I was a little apprehensive; I didn't know much about Doha. But the opportunity to experience a city so far removed from my own and to see the real Middle East was an immediate yes for me. 

So I made the trip to Doha, flying Qatar Airways, which was recently named the World's Best Airline for the seventh time, and spent five days doing as much as I physically could in the city - sleep could wait! And they were quite honestly five of the best days of my life.

Staying in Msheireb, one of Doha's most central areas, at Park Hyatt Doha, allowed me to really see and explore all that Doha has to offer. 

On my first day, I visited The Museum of Islamic Art. As someone who loves shiny things and history, this museum was perfect for me - a comprehensive collection of Islamic art from around the globe. After this, I kept the museum bandwagon rolling and headed to The National Museum of Qatar. Both museum buildings were spectacular architecturally speaking and made for some great photo ops (which let's be honest, is one of the best parts of travelling!).

The Museum of Islamic Art and The National Museum of Qatar. The artefacts inside the Islamic Art Museum were standouts, including the gold Quran and impressive jewels. Image: Supplied. 

I then had dinner at Parisa, which had an incredible Persian-themed interior, and stuffed myself with authentic Persian food. But the night wasn't over, I then visited Souq Waqif, a bustling marketplace in the heart of Doha, selling traditional garments, spices, handcrafted goods, perfumes, souvenirs, food and more.

Other highlights from the trip included: 

  • The Place Vendome, a lush Milan-themed shopping centre, lunch at Michelin-star chef David Myers restaurant ADRIFT and going on a traditional wooden Dhow boat for a sunset cruise. 
  • A trip to the brand new 3-2-1 Qatar Olympic & Sports Museum, established in the lead-up to the FIFA World Cup in Doha this November.
  • The Pearl Qatar - a spectacular artificial island with humongous buildings, shops, incredible architecture and jaw-dropping residential palaces.
  • Katara Cultural Village, which consists of a bunch of mosques, art galleries and an amphitheatre nestled in a maze of cobbled alleys.

Being able to enter the mosque and pay homage to the Qatari people's faith was an experience I was very grateful I had the chance to do. It was the only time while in Qatar that a strict Islamic dress code was requested - other than that, I wore what I wanted throughout the trip and just made sure I covered my chest and knees.

But my favourite experience by far was the desert safari, where I got to explore the 11,437 square kilometres of desert located less than an hour from Doha. And the dune bashing was exhilarating. The day was capped off by a traditional Qatari dinner at Khor Al Udayd (Inland Sea) which is located on the Persian Gulf, followed by a dip in the sea.

While the extraordinary places I visited and the experiences I had in Doha will stay with me, it was the people I met during the trip that made my time in Doha such an enriching experience. 

My tour guide Amir, who works alongside Visit Qatar, not only answered my many questions about what to see and do, but we also had some powerful conversations about culture and religion.

Originally from Pakistan, Amir visited Qatar in the early 2000s and fell in love with the country. He is now a proud Qatari, raising his two kids in Doha, alongside his wife who hails from Scotland. 

A devout Muslim, Amir was kind enough to share with me all about his religion, even offering for me to hold his prayer beads. Little did I know they are in fact worth thousands. 

While at the Souq Waqif marketplace, I met a man named Khalib. He invited Amir and me into his space, where we drank tea together while Khalib regaled us with stories from his youth. I also tried my hand at Dama, a game like checkers. Khalib told me there was a fundamental life lesson for every player to learn while playing Dama: "When opportunity strikes, take it."

Another man I met was Kevin, who took me on a kayak tour in the Doha waterways. While kayaking, he shared that he migrated from Kenya to Qatar. He likes living in Doha, but acknowledges the flaws. Qatar is more conservative than Dubai for example, but it is also more progressive and liberal than nearby countries such as Iran and Saudi Arabia.

Other sides of Doha. Image: Supplied.

One of my drivers, a Nepalese man, shared a similar sentiment. He said the work in Doha - particularly in the lead-up to the FIFA World Cup - were opportunities he couldn't miss out on. I spoke to a British hospitality worker who had initially struggled with the move but had now grown to love it: The culture. The people. The things to do.

I came to learn that the vast majority of people in Qatar are expats. People who have come to the country in search of a different life and different opportunities. Nepalese, British, South Asian, Egyptian, African, Lebanese, Australian - you name it. 

It was a melting pot of culture and people which I wasn't expecting. And every person I met and interacted with on this short trip was friendly; they were genuinely welcoming and excited to see tourists visiting their country. 

And something that struck me was that in most places I went and visited alongside my tour guide Amir, he knew someone and would hug them hello. It's a level of friendliness I'm not accustomed to in a big capital city.  

But of course, there is no shying away from Qatar's reputation. When visiting the country, there were a few factors at the forefront of my mind. Qatar, like with many countries across Africa, Asia, the Pacific and the Caribbean, criminalises homosexuality, and Amnesty's report on the situation of migrant workers amid the FIFA World Cup was also a topic raised. It's an issue the Qatari government should answer to. 

 The people themselves - the everyday locals, the workers I met, the many I passed on the street, those who welcomed me into their spaces - were incredibly tolerant, kind and welcoming. 

And in the end, that's the overarching experience that will stick with me.

As a young woman in a foreign city, I felt safe - and that's a blessing I don't take for granted, considering experiences I have had in other countries.

So would I go back to Qatar again? Yes. Why? Because the culture, people, scenery and experiences were memories I will keep for a lifetime. When I asked Amir why he decided to stay in Qatar and build a life for himself in Doha, he said it was simple.

"There is such beauty here. And to see what it is today compared to when I first arrived - it's beautiful. And it will only get better."

The writer travelled as a guest of Visit Qatar.

Feature Image: Supplied.

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